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  Newsletter: October 2005
  Edito  
  Welcome to our October edition of Cosmetic Vegetable Oils. Bearberry is our oil of the month. Our "back to school" section will give you a brief explanation about anti-oxidants. And you'll find bellow a selection of the most interesting questions you sent us.
  The oil of the month: Bearberry Oil  
 

Latin: Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi
Also known as Uva Ursi to herbalists and healers the Bearberry plant is very unique. In addition to its cosmetic uses it is also used worldwide for its medicinal effect on the body, and traditionally was also a food. History It has had many names throughout its usage including, Bearberry, Kinnikinnick, Pinemat Manzanita, Carillo, Mealberry, Mountain Box, Mountain Cranberry, Sandberry, Sagackhomi, Bear's Berry and Arberry. Just for fun, the name Kinnikinnick is the longest word in the English language that is pronounced the same either backwards or forwards. It is also under this name the plant was known to the American Natives. The bright red berries stay on the plant all winter long. After a long winter sleep the mighty bear with his strength and endurance chooses the petit Bearberry as its first sustenance. The native people also choose it for nourishment, eating the fresh berries raw or cooked. And they also were preserved either fresh in grease filled birch bark containers, or dried. The early Americans also used the leaves prepared as a tea to treat ailments of the kidneys and bladder, as well as other conditions. One additional use, and the source of the name Kinnikinnick, was to smoke the dried leaves. The Native Americans used to smoke tobacco, and often blended it with other herbs (commonly Bearberry) for certain spiritual uses. The leaves of the Bearberry when smoked were said to "support the agreement between the people". The name Kinnikinnick is an Algonqian word meaning "mixture". It should be noted also that Bearberry is a relative to Manzanita.

Botany: One finds them on the rocks of mountain, in the Alps, the Pyrenees and the Cevennes in southern France. There also exists a great number in the United States mostly in mountainous and rocky regions.

Its role in ecological balance: Often found on abrupt sand banks, mountains and cliffs, the Bearberry is useful in strengthening the ground and slowing down the erosion caused by the wind. For these reasons, the landscape designers like to plant it in the sandy places, prone to erosion, where it will constitute an effective and pleasant appealing covering.

Locally: originating in Asia and Northern North America, it can also be found in the southern mountains of Europe. One will find it in the same habitats as the cornflower, on the rocks of siliceous nature or in the clearings of the forests of conifers. It can grow quite well in dry nutrient-poor soils as well. Parts used: Leaves and fruits

Composition: Arbutine: (a glucoside of the hydroquinone), Tannins, Glucosides, Terpenes, Flavonoids, organic acids, Rock salt (Ca, K), Allantoin

Properties:The Bearberry is used much in traditional medicine.
Bearberry leaf is widely used as a diuretic, astringent, and antiseptic. Folk medicine around the world has recommended Bearberry for nephritis, kidney stones, and chronic cystitis. The herb has also been used as a general tonic for weakened kidneys, liver or pancreas. The primary chemical constituents of this herb include glycosides (arbutin, methylarbutin, ericolin), allantoin, flavonoids (quercetin , myricacitrin), tannins, hydroquinone, ellagic acid, gallic acid, malic acid, and ursolic acid. It also contains vitamin A, iron, manganese, selenium and silicon.

The leaves are used in decoction, which is measured as 10 to 15 G per liter of water. Add leaves to the water and bring to a boil. Reduce to a low simmer and cook for half an hour. This allows the extraction of some of the key components including arbutine, which id one of the active ingredients of the Bearberry. One takes 2 or 3 cups per day. As the plant is rich in tannins, it can cause gastric irritation, if this occurs add some peppermint or chamomile flower tea at a measure of 1:1 with the finished Bearberry decoction.

The sheets of the Bearberry are rich in arbutine, which is a powerful urinary and intestinal disinfectant, as well as active on the colon bacilli, and principal germs responsible for the urinary infections (cystitis). The specific action on the intestinal bacteria is very important, as the digestive tract houses thousands of bacteria which are responsible for many things, including; nutrient digestion and assimilation, vitamin production, and immune system building and maintaining. The corruption of this environment can result in many imbalances and diseases. It seems that the arbutine is metabolized only in the urinary tract, where it is metabolized into glucose and hydroquinone, substance very close to phenol, a powerful disinfectant.
Effects: diuretic disinfectant and anti-putrefactive, sedative of the urinary tracts, astringent.

Use: Bearberry is a leaf extract with cleansing and skin-brightening (lightening) properties. It is well known in folklore to act as a skin-whitening agent. Cosmetic scientists have prepared an extract of the plant and demonstrated how this whitening happens. The properties of the plant have demonstrated an effect inhibiting melanin production in human melanocytes by reducing tyrosinase (enzyme) activity. This means the skin becomes lighter as melanin is the pigment that darkens skin; therefore a reduction in melanin results in a reduction of skin pigment, and thus lighter skin. It has been demonstrated to be a better whitener than kojic acid or L-ascorbic acid, and has also been demonstrated to be more effective as an antioxidant than hydroquinone.

Use in Cosmetics: Bearberry also known as Uva-Ursi is a leaf extract with cleansing and skin-brightening (lightening) properties. It is well known in folklore to act as a skin-whitening agent. Cosmetic scientists have prepared an extract of the plant and demonstrated how this whitening happens. The properties of the plant have demonstrated an effect inhibiting melanin production in human melanocytes by reducing tyrosinase (enzyme) activity. This means the skin becomes lighter as melanin is the pigment that darkens skin; therefore a reduction in melanin results in a reduction of skin pigment, and thus lighter skin. It has been demonstrated to be a better whitener than kojic acid or L-ascorbic acid, and has also been demonstrated to be more effective as an antioxidant than hydroquinone.

 

     
   
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  Oils are part of our tradition. All properties mentioned on this site are referring to those traditions and
are not to be taken as therapeutic directions defined by legal and medical texts in Europe. We are simply
favoring people who like to take care of themselves a natural way. Please consult your doctor for any treatment
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